Saturday, January 19, 2008
Style Icon: Anita Pallenberg
You might have seen Anita Pallenberg before. She starred alongside Jane Fonda in Barbarella, and she was a model in the '60s who posed for illustrious photogs like Jean Loup-Sieff. Not to mention, she was the paramour of Brian Jones, and the mother of two of Keith Richard's children. But maybe you recognize her for another reason: her signature style. Anita was the original rock chick, who deftly combined elements of men's tailoring with (ick, it pains me to use this term, even though I appreciate the aesthetic) "bohemian" looks. Many fashion editors scratch their heads trying to crack Kate Moss' fabulous look, but I dare say Mossy borrows heavily from Anita's greatest hits, and therefore we see it trickle down to the streets today. But the difference was that ANita really lived the rock life style, and her "bohemian" duds weren't the ersatz version fashion churns out today; she scored ethnic textiles and caftans in Afghanistan while she was there scoring hash with the boys. A true survivor, Anita beat a decade-long heroin addiction, the breakup of her relationship Keith, and moved on to get a degree from St. Martin's! She has worked with designers like Marc Jacobs, Anna Sui, and Zac Posen. Obviously, she's an inspiration to many more.
Retail Therapy
Recently, I got an email from a reader asking me for more info about my fabulous Louboutin Declic pumps. I am only too happy to share with you sourcing for your must-haves that I have been lucky enough to score, or to offer advice about how things run, etc. Simply leave your question in the comment field of any post, or e-mail me at contactlhabit@gmail.com. Happy shopping!
Friday, January 18, 2008
Fashionable Reading: "Boutique: a '60s Cultural Phenomenon" by Marnie Fogg
Admittedly, I am a tad bit obsessed with the Swinging London of the 1960s. Many of my favorite bands -- the Stones, the Kinks -- and people -- Anita Pallenberg, Jean Shrimpton, Bailey, not to mention, designers -- Ossie Clark, anyone? -- came out of the scene. Of course, we are all familiar with the ideas and styles born in that era that fashion loves to recycle, but maybe you didn't realize that the 1960s left another legacy to modern fashion: boutique culture. The small boutiques of London in the 1960s were the predecessors of high street, accessible fashion that so many modern fashionistas rely on for style on a budget. (Think H&M and Topshop.) '60s London boutiques were created in an effort to make style and fashion accessible to the youth in a time where couture and boring department stores held the market in thrall. Marnie Fogg's book, Boutique: a '60s Cultural Phenomenon, chronicles the names you need to know. Personal faves are Biba, natch, and Granny Takes a Trip.
This book was published in 2003, and is therefore not new. But I have a huge fashion library, and would like to make this a regular feature. So many people interested in and even working in fashion are unaware of fashion's rich history. Books like this are a great resource for boning up on your fashion history.
Tuesday, January 8, 2008
The Wisdom of Elizabeth Hawes
You probably have never heard of Elizabeth Hawes, but she was a successful American-born RTW and couture designer, fashion copyist, and stylist in both Paris and The States in the early 20th century. In 1938, she wrote a brilliant book about the fashion industry titled "Fashion is Spinach." Essentially, she hated spinach and thought that fashion wasn't worth a hoot either. A fashion designer who hates fashion might leave you nonplussed, but Hawes was truly more of a style purveyor, who took issue with the notion that fashion need be controlled by the haute couture, and enjoyed only by the ne plus ultra of society. To express this point of view, she offered up some gems: "Style is the thing which, being looked back upon after a century, gives you the fundamental mental feeling for a certain period in history. Style doesn't change every month or every year. It only changes as often as there is a real change in the point of view and lives of the people for whom it is produced. Style changes every seven years or so, and any dress which isn't in style for at least three years isn't any good to begin with. " And the real zinger: "Fashion is the horrid little man with an evil eye who tells you that your last winter's coat may be in perfect physical condition, but you can't wear it. You can't wear it because it has a belt, and this year 'we are not showing belts.'"
Now, don't get me wrong: I adore fashion and work in the industry. But I applaud Ms. Hawes' philosophy that one should cultivate a personal style rather than fall victim to trends every six months.
Style Icon: Diana Ross
Any vintage lover with a thing for 1970s chic must see Diana Ross in Mahogany. Despite its improbable plot and questionable casting (Anthony Perkins as a womanizing fashion photog?) Diana Ross' costumes are to die for. The 1970s were the height of polished American sportswear that is germane to fashion once again -- think Marc Jacobs Fall '07. Miss Ross does her thing in sultry, slinky jersey gowns, trousers, pussy cat blouses, and fabulous accessories. There is a particularly memorable scene where "Mahogany" aka Diana -- who is a fashion model / designer -- makes a fabulous runway entrance in a brilliant orange jersey gown that made me wonder who designed these fabulous looks? (Sadly, I couldn't find a photo of it.) Diana Ross herself has the wardrobe credit according to www.imdb.com Wow Diana, I'm impressed! But she must have had help; for example, the raspberry jersey look on the upper left was designed by Bob Mackie. (Dare I say it would have been better without the fur hat?) Regardless, check out Diana's sleek look and see how it's done.
Feeling Blue
I suppose my footwear is going through some sort of blue period, as evidenced by my two latest acquisitions: Pierre Hardy flats and the Louboutin Declic. Two pair of blue suede shoes might be overkill for one wardrobe, but they are different styles and will be worn in different ways, bien sur. Plus, I had been eyeing the Hardy flats all season, and found them on sale at Barneys a week ago, so how could I resist? The Declic has been in stores for about ten days. What do you think?
Monday, January 7, 2008
Bienvenue
Welcome to L'Habit! I am a 27-year-old New Yorker who works in the fashion industry. Until last year, I worked as a fashion editor and writer. My most recent job was at a national publication where I was the Senior Fashion Writer, and a media spokesperson. (I.e. I talked about fashion on TV and in newspaper articles.) I decided to take a respite from the glamorous world of fashion journalism in order to go to grad school: I am getting my MA in the History of Fashion and Textiles, and am about to embark on my final semester. So when it's all said and done, I suppose I will be some kind of fashion history expert. In the meantime, I have decided to -- however cliched -- write my own blog. So stay tuned for my musings on fashion past and present...
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